Sunday night I decided to dig up some confit pork (a recipe for another day ) from its lardy home in the back of the fridge to serve with polenta chips (one batch of your favourite savoury polenta, spread in a pan, cooled in the fridge, cut into chips, drizzled with olive oil, and pan fried on each side ‘til browned and crispy). What with all this richness and creaminess, some bite was needed. Enter the pickled cabbage, which Americans would refer to as vinegar slaw (and as far as I am concerned, a much superior product for most applications than its more popular cousin, mayonnaise coleslaw).
The Easiest, Most Perfect Bread
16 May
This no-knead bread thing was all over the internet about four years ago, but I didn’t take much notice because I like kneading bread dough. I love how the dough changes as the glutens develop and how it feels like a living thing in your hands. But you know what I love more? I love a perfect, crisp, shattering crust and a firm-yet-airy crumb with big swiss cheese holes, and I simply wasn’t getting that from standard home baking techniques. No-knead bread promised the results I was after, and I figured that if it’s as easy as they say, I might as well give it a try. Continue reading
Calls Landing Stew and Oyster Kitchen
10 MayI first visited Calls Landing Stew and Oyster Kitchen back in February. It was a cold, blustery day and I thought a nice stew would be just the thing. I was really surprised by the food – was my great grandma back from the dead and working in the kitchen? Because I was served an exact replica of her tomato beef soup. She used to make it with leftover bits of meat and vegetables (usually pot-roast beef, carrots, potatoes, and possibly beans, peas, or corn) heated through with jarred pureed tomatoes put up from the previous summer’s garden. The Calls Landing version was nice -the beef, carrots, and potatoes were tender, the tomato broth was, well, tomatoey. It was just the kind of tasty, simple, filling food that a woman who raised a family during the Great Depression would throw together to make sure that nothing went to waste. It was NOT, however, anything that even remotely resembled Beef Bourguignon, which is what I actually ordered. Beef Bourguignon is a slow-cooked dish with lots of red wine (Bourguignon is the adjectival form of Bourgogn, aka burgundy, which is of course a red wine – the clue is in the name!) plus onions, garlic, and usually mushrooms. No tomatoes, no carrots, no potatoes. Continue reading
Fettucine Carbonara and a plug for a neat website
3 May
So there’s this website called Forkd I’ve been enjoying lately. It’s kind of like a social recipe networking kind of site. You can save or ‘fork’ other people’s recipes to try later, add your own changes and substitutions, comment on other recipes, and search for new recipes using tags. It’s also easy to use and really, really nicely designed with lots of clever touches. There is an option to automatically blog your recipes, which works quite well, as you can see below. I’ve done some minor editing (moved the photo to the right, changed some text from italic to plain) but for the most part, the auto-blog feature gets the layout just right. So, with no future ado, I bring you Fettucine Carbonara!
Continue reading
This could be a problem
23 AprSo I’m reading this book – Remembrance of Things Paris – Sixty Years of Writing from Gourmet Magazine. This is a lovely read, but it’s causing me a problem. One essay describes a dish made in Paris before the war called Eggs Amelie. This bit of culinary madness consists of cold butter shaped into eggs which are then dusted in flour and rolled in egg and breadcrumbs a couple of times. A plug is then taken out of one end and the whole thing is deep fried. The butter melts and pours out, leaving a fragile, delicate eggshell of fried breadcrumbs, which is then filled with creamy scrambled eggs studded with truffle. I AM DESPERATE TO TRY TO MAKE THIS. And I haven’t even told you about the nest they’re served in, made of fried shoestring potato deep fried between two differently-sized wire mesh baskets.
I should probably step away from the kitchen and just survive on meal replacement shakes for a while.
Tacos for Tea
22 AprFor most people here in England, taco means Old El Paso. Or maybe Discovery. Crispy tortilla shell with a spoonful of mince that’s been browned and seasoned with a salty, sweetened packet of powder. Chopped lettuce, shredded cheddar cheese, a dollop of soured cream. Gloopy salsa from a pouch or a jar. But let me tell you, my friends, there is another kind of taco – a real taco, a fresh, amazing taco. I am here to show you the way!
First of all, no mince, please. That doesn’t mean you have to buy fancy cuts. I made these tacos with a pack of pre-cut organic stewing beef from the reduced-to-sell bin. It was less than £2 and was more than enough for me and the Mister. In fact, the cheaper the cut, the more authentic your taco will be. Just remember, the cheaper it is, the longer it will take to cook, so plan ahead! I used the slow cooker this time. The night before, I mixed the stewing beef with the juice of an orange, a big pinch of cumin, a big pinch of chipotle chili powder (plain chili powder would work fine), salt, pepper, and a little olive oil. The next morning before work, I just took it out of the fridge and plopped it into the slow cooker with a couple of cloves of garlic that I smashed as best as I could with my fingers since I don’t trust myself with a knife that early (by the way, if you put on your makeup after you smash garlic with your fingers, even if you wash your hands, your face will smell of garlic all day. Consider yourself warned). After eight hours on low, the beef was tender enough to fall apart when poked with a fork. It was not, however, crispy on the edges. This is important to me, so I tipped the whole shebang into a pan and cooked it over high heat until all the liquid evaporated and the shreddy chunks of beef were nice and brown. See?
So this is your filling. Before you finished it up, you should have made your toppings. Sorry! I forgot to mention that. You can use jarred salsa if you like. I wouldn’t, unless it was really awesome jarred salsa. It does exist, just not generally in this country. Definitely not at Morrison’s, or Tesco, or Sainsbury’s. Not to worry, though, home made salsas are much better and very, very easy. This time, I made an avocado and tomato salsa with cubed ripe avocado, 3 small, ripe chopped tomatoes (seeds and goop squeezed out), a little onion, a chopped fresh chili, juice of one fresh lime, a teaspoon of cider vinegar, salt, a little cumin, and fresh coriander. By the way, sniff your tomatoes before you buy them! If they don’t smell like anything, they are worthless, no matter how red they are. If you don’t know how a tomato is supposed to smell, wait a few months until you find a ripe one in a garden, and have a good sniff. If you can’t find tomato-smelling tomatoes in the store then just do without. So back to our regularly scheduled taco programming. I also made a vinegary apple slaw. This sounds strange, but it’s kind of similar to jicama in vinegar, which is very traditional in Mexico. Jicama isn’t as sweet as apple but the texture is very similar. This slaw is easy to make, just an apple and about 1/4 of an onion chopped into thin matchsticks marinated for about 20 minutes in white or cider vinegar and water to cover (1 part of each) along with about a tablespoon of sugar. Other ideas for toppings – thinly sliced radish, crumbly white cheese (feta is good, as is Caerphilly, but not cheddar!) or thinly sliced iceberg lettuce sprinkled with salt and vinegar.
So, here’s the finished product with the salsa and the slaw and a drizzle of creme fraiche thinned with a little milk. You can use soured cream, too, but make sure to thin it out so it’s drizzle-able. That’s a corn tortilla you see there, toasted in a dry skillet until it’s hot and pliable and a little puffy with brown toasty spots. OMG so good. However, I know that corn tortillas are hard to find in the UK, so flour is acceptable. Flour tortillas in this country are almost always huge, though, so if the ones you use are larger than 4-5 inches across, you should cut them in half. If they’re REALLY huge, cut them in fourths. You’re not making burritos here – a taco should be three good bites, four at the most. As you can see in the photo, a proper taco is barely bigger than my teeny little mouse hand.
So you’re going to make some real tacos soon, right? If you don’t feel like cooking your filling low-and-slow all day long, not to worry. Rump steak and chicken breasts make great filling, too. Just marinate in the orange juice mixture I told you about up there while you’re at work and then when you get home, cook the steak or chicken breast in a skillet or grill pan before slicing as thin as you can against the grain. I’d leave the rump steak rare, but not the chicken obviously! I’d also pound the chicken out thin before marinating it but that’s just me. You could also get crazy and try some international tacos! Marinate the meat in Indian curry spices and lime juice, serve with mango chutney, lime pickle, and cucumber raita and wrap in chappatis. Or marinate in greek spices and yogurt and serve with hummous and olives and feta in a pita. If you’re a veggie (you weirdo), you can even use the taco marinade with chunks of onion, courgette, and mushrooms before cooking in a little oil over high heat until delicious and tender with browned, crispy edges.
Tacos! Yay!
What to buy at the Asian grocery
20 AprI love Asian grocery stores, but for the longest time I just wandered around confused, not knowing what to buy. The staff are always competent and professional, but between the language barrier and my general shyness (no, really), I’d come home with a bit of this and a bit of that, some of which was awesome and was gobbled right up, some of which was terrible and ended up in the cupboard for six months before hitting the bin. Here are some tips and some ideas of things you might like to try, if you’re an Asian grocery newbie.

Today’s grocery is Taste the Orient, located here in Leeds on Vicar Lane. I tried to get some photos inside, but I was told NO PICTURES. If you haven’t been, it’s not the tiny, crowded, confusing place you might expect. It’s very modern and bright with a red-and-black colour scheme. If you want tiny and crowded, you can head right across the street next to the Edward Street carpark where you will find the Wing Lee Hong Co. It is owned by the same people and carries many of the same products, maybe with more of an emphasis on catering sizes of Asian culinary staples, herbal and medicinal products, and Asian holiday decorations. They also have some gorgeous posters of old Chinese (I think – please someone correct me if I am wrong! ) cigarette ads with beautiful, traditionally-dressed ladies, which would probably look excellent over the mantel. I usually hit both stores when I am Asian marketing, but I stuck with Taste the Orient this time.
Here we have ponzu – a vinegar and citrus based sauce that can be mixed with soy sauce and used for dipping sashimi or dumplings aka gyoza. It’s great in salad dressings , too.Next up? Brown rice tea. Sounds disgusting, tastes really nice and toasty and comforting, but completely unlike Horlick’s if that’s what toasty and comforting brings to mind for you. It’s kind of hard to describe – it kind of smells like popcorn. I drink this all the time at work.
This is furikake. It’s a seasoning made mainly of seaweed flakes, sugar, and sesame seeds. There are tons of different varieties which include things like dry salmon flakes, shiso, miso, etc. This stuff makes plain leftover rice into a new and exciting meal. Kids love it, apparently, because there are tons of versions in little envelopes with cartoon characters. There is even a Hello Kitty variety. I assume it doesn’t contain dried kitties. I use this stuff to season the rice when I make onigiri and sometimes I just sprinkle it on any old thing that’s tasting a bit boring. Tomato soup? Tuna Mayo? Ham sandwich? All good candidates for the furikake treatment.
I tried something new today – mustard green kim-chi. I’ve only ever had the cabbage variety, but this is pretty awesome. The mustard leaves are looooong and slimy and spicy and delicious. This came in a big packet, which I mistakenly thought was resealable. I need to get a couple of zipper storage bags to put this in because it is pretty (deliciously) smelly and it might take over the fridge before I’m done with it.









